Saturday, February 25, 2017

Last Days of Egypt

One day in Egypt, we decided to explore some old tombs...  The pyramids at Saqqara and Durfur were like the learning pyramids for Giza. It was so cool to go down and see the hieroglyphics that were still brightly colored! 
Man of the Desert

Step Pyramid
Our tour guide Abdul even found a monkey hieroglyph! Mommy and Daddy played in the sarcophagus, but I stayed far away from that; I don't want a mummy curse.
Monkey Hieroglyph
Mommy in the Sarcophagus

Daddy in the Sarcophagus
In Memphis, we found a cool outdoor museum! There were statues of Ramses and Hapshetsut that were my favorite.
Ramses II
Ramses II
Our tour guide let me go anywhere I wanted
More Hieroglyphs!
Our guide took us to lunch.  He said they were going to cook a little Monkey for lunch!  I got out of there quick.
Lunch in Memphis

Abdul took his to his favorite shops.  Daddy got to try on a traditional head scarf.  We went to an amazing shop with oils, and Mommy was so in awe, that she forgot to take pictures!  Silly mommy.  She had to tell me to sit still a lot, because there was a lot of glass around.
Daddy's Egyptian now! 
We went on a Nile Diner Cruise after this magical day and saw belly dancing and folk dancing.  I snuck off while Mommy and Daddy had dinner and helped the captain drive the ship! 
Nile River at Night

Nile Dinner Cruise

We spent the next two days exploring Cairo. GAD was our favorite resturaunt.  Mommy discovered Fried Greek Cheese!  We had Falafels and French Fries for breakfast every day.  Mommy and Daddy loved looking down at the busy street and seeing the cars compete for space, or the man on a bicycle ride with one hand, using his other hand to carry a 6'x6' tray of pita down the road! 
GAD

The Egyptian Museum was huge! I think it's bigger than the Winchester Mystery House! We saw everything from hieroglyphics to statues to pillars to mummies! Mommy had me take a picture with a mummy; when I turned around I found out it was a monkey mummy and I scurried away quick! I don't like mummies much.
Egyptian Museum
Egyptian Museum

Egyptian Museum

Egyptian Museum
Egyptian Museum

Mummy Monkey!!
We went to the Citadel, and enjoyed views of Cairo and cool old mosques.
Citadel
Citadel
Citadel
View from the Citadel
 And then we went for lunch at a five star restaurant in Al Ahzar Park. This park in Cairo, is a lovely oasis in the midst of chaos. The food was amazing, and it was a momentary reprieve from the sounds of the horns. We wandered around the park after lunch, up to the view point and past the many lovely fountains. It was magical.

Al Azhar Park
Al Azhar Park
The next day, we had an adventure to Cairo tower! This was a very tall tower like the space Needle. It even has a revolving resturaunt like the space Needle! We went up to the view point, and off in the distance, you could see the pyramids of Giza. How incredible it must be to have that as part of your view every day. I also spent some time monkeying around, making Mommy a little nervous about me playing over the long drop it would be if I fell. But I had fun, and I knew I was safe! 
Cairo Tower
Selfie
Cairo Tower
Cairo Tower
Cairo Tower - Wheee!


We all monkeyed around on the trees free we came back down, and it was a lot of fun.

Banyan Tree Fun!
There is a feeling of being very tied to ancient civilization and the past when you are in Egypt. In Portland, there are many images of Mt. Hood or the coast; In Egypt, there are many images of pyramids, the lotus flower, and hieroglyphs. There is a sense of the Pharaohs from the past watching over the city.

I wonder what the Ancients would think of the modern Cairo?

Until our next adventure, Sukrah for reading, and safe travels!






The Safari Club

Ain Sokhna is a lovely beach town that has long been an Egyptian getaway. Only recently have tourists from other countries started coming to Ain Sokhna. Our resort was in the south part, called Porto Sokhna. We were a bit of a drive from the popular part, so Mommy and Daddy got a driver to take us up there. It was like a ghost town. All the shops were closed. But, Mommy spotted a sign that said "Safari Club" and Daddy called them.

The Magic of the Safari Club
The next day, they sent a car to take us to their magical village. There were quads, dune buggies, and motorcycles, along with a beautiful white horse, a gazelle, bunnies, and birdies! 

White Horse

Gazelle
The very first thing they asked us was to sit in a lovely tent, enjoy the view of the mountain, and to have tea. "Egyptian hospitality" as it came to be known.

Egyptian Hospitality

After a long time relaxing, enjoying the view and the breeze, they came and asked us if we wanted to ride the quads. Turns out only one was working well. A guide took Daddy up the track and back. We asked if Mommy could ride the guides quad, and they said no; the brakes weren't working well. So Mommy told Daddy to scoot back, and she rode the quad on the track with Daddy on the back! I laughed as we bounced and slid around on the rocky Egyptian dirt. Mommy and Daddy took turns being on the front. 

Quad Riding

When Daddy got off to take pictures, the guide said to him "she can drive." The funny thing was the brakes weren't really working on this quad either. That didn't phase Mommy and Daddy... Gas is better than brakes! Wheee!

After a while, the owner said "come." He took us to a lovely view point overlooking the Red Sea, and where you could see the mountain range extend south. It was beautiful. They told us that next week, they would be taking tours into the mountains and camping. Oh how I wish we could have stayed.

View of the Red Sea
After riding, our hosts introduced us to a game they called "Beber." It was dominoes, and Daddy had never played before! We played until sunset, then they lit a campfire for us.

Beber
Campfire
This beautiful afternoon shows the lovely Egyptian pace... Sometimes there are jokes about "Egyptian time" because the Egyptians can be slow to complete projects or to come to appointments. But the good part of Egyptian time is sitting, drinking tea, and feeling the cool sea breeze in your fur.


Magical

Magical

Omar, our host

Bye bye for now!












Reflections on Egypt


The Red Sea was quiet, giving us some peaceful time to reflect. Tourists are very important to the Egyptian economy. American tourism has been low in recent years. We had a happy reception everywhere we went. Egyptians who only knew a few words of English would ask where we are from, and then give us a big thumbs up and smile, saying "Hi Ho Silver!"  Others with more knowledge of English would say "we love Americans. Why no Americans come to Egypt?" Our resturaunt manager used to work in Sharm El Sheikh and til a plane crashed; then all the tourists left, and he had to find a different job. He told us he knows the media tells Americans Egypt is dangerous. "We are just like you." He works, takes care of his family, tries to have some time for fun. (He doesn't have a travel monkey though. I asked.) 
Reflecting in Porto Sokhna

Quiet Beach Town



Porto Sokhna

There is a lot of poverty in Egypt. People live in so many places that look abandoned. Everything is coated with a layer of sand or dirt. There is one section of Cairo that is for all the trash of 20 million people/200 square miles. The trash collectors and their families live in the trash area. And there is trash everywhere. Trash collecting is an endless, and I imagine thankless job. I don't think I'd want to be a trash collectors in Egypt, though they do get to ride in the back of the pickups.  

There are thousands of unfinished buildings. Our guide Abdul said they are unfinished because that way the owners don't have to pay taxes.  The poverty and tourism has created many people that work for tips. Navigating these social interactions has a learning curve. Daddy says don't look at people or talk to them. This is hard for Mommy, who is interested in people. If you have a guide, they keep you from experiencing most of this, but when you are out on your own, it takes a couple of experiences to really understand that the only thing free is selfies the Egyptians want to take with you.

Egypt

Egypt

Pets are only for rich people, but stray dogs and cats are literally everywhere. Our guide Abdul had some fun with me and a stray puppy. These puppies were lucky, because they lived close to a wonderful resturaunt!

Playing with the Puppy
Egyptians may not agree with their government all the time, but they are proud of their history and country. The court system in America is so foreign, it seems silly to them. They appreciate the checks and balances offered by Congress to the president. (I had to ask Mommy who Congress was.) They are also proud of the Nile, and how it supplies all of their water.
The Nile
The Nile

Beautiful Bank Engravings
Tourism is so important that people who go to university to be a lawyer quit their jobs to be tour guides because it pays better than beginning law jobs!

Egyptian men are so affectionate with each other! Hugs, kisses, and arms around shoulders are common. Egyptian men are not supposed to touch women.
Nathan and Omar
One Nile Dinner Driver
Abdul and Nathan
Abdul and Kris
Cairo is a little different, because it's so diverse, and there is some western influence. The teenagers love to get selfies with Americans! The girls especially loved selfies with Daddy, and the boys liked to put their arms around Mommy for selfies.
Selfie!
Photos with the American Girl!

There is so much security. Just to get into the Egyptian museum, there are three security gates. At gas stations, attendants scan the cars for explosives. Tourist Police are everywhere. Our resort had guards everywhere, but usually they just napped. One drew Mommy a picture. On the back of a list of guest names.
From the Security Guard

There are so many more men than women out and about. Business is more often conducted by men, though Cairo is changing. Our guide Abdul said his wife stays home with his five children. He's from the country, but he and his wife live in Cairo now, to give his kids a better life. It's hard for them to be away from family. He talked about his wife wearing a burka. Not with possessiveness, but respect and pride. "No one else sees my wife except me." He is paying for all of his children to go to private school. Another guide we had, named Kareem, was younger. His wife also usually works, but is home with their second baby who is one month. He said the younger generation only wants one or two children, not five to seven. "two is good, more is not good." In Egypt, it is said the women are in charge. The men earn the money, and the wives spend it. It is often said the women talk a lot, this is met with laughter, and Mommy or Daddy will say it is that way in America too.

Mommy read me a short history of Egyptian women. Egypt had almost always been very progressive in their beliefs about women; all the way up until the 1960's, when a new president took over, and said women were meant to be in the home. Unemployment for women quickly went from 5% to 40%!  There are women working to regain their status, but it is hard at times. Mommy read me stories about women motorcyclists who are really shaking things up. Mommy asked our guide about them; our guide said these ladies ride through Cairo every Friday night.

Embracing Feminine and Masculine
Hatshepsut, the female Pharaoh 
Some of the Women

There is an extreme value of family in Egypt. We had many conversations about family, but one that stood out was with our driver Kareem. He got his degree in IT, but in Egypt, that is not a high paying field. He chose to do tourism instead, so he could get married and have children. Tourism pays much better than IT.

There is a mix of a fast pace and slow pace in Egypt. People drive fast and walk fast. But if you are eating, it is leisurely and the check comes much later. When we went to ride quads, we were dropped off, and then invited to look at the mountain and drink tea. For a really long time. It was lovely, but so different than the churn of go go go in the city.

Egyptian Hospitality, drinking tea, enjoying the beauty 
I think, to sum it up, Egypt is a series of contradictions. I think what Mommy, Daddy, and I love best, though, are the people. Contradictions there too; the melodic Arabic interspersed with harshness, the lovely warm hospitality along side the desperate need for money to survive. But it's the hearts and souls of people that are open and friendly and welcoming that really make Egypt the beautiful place that it is.